A new study that tracks the journey of second-hand clothing from Sweden to Kenya ‘debunks the myth’ that second-hand clothing exports constitute dumping, according to Humana Lithuania and the IVL Swedish Environmental Research Institute.
The study, From Collection of Used Clothes in Sweden to Reuse in Kenya, notes that due to Kenya’s high import taxes on ‘mitumba’, an East African term for second-hand clothes – amounting to about €0.62 per kilogram – importing textiles for the purpose of discarding them in landfills would be economically unfeasible.
In fact, the trade in second-hand clothing has positive socio-economic impacts, including job creation and support for local economies.
Household textile collection
The study follows Sweden’s recent introduction of mandatory separate household textile collection, which commenced in January 2025 – a policy that has increased collection volumes, however it has also reduced the share of textiles fit for reuse.
“As textile collectors, we support better textile waste management, but the new rules are placing logistical and financial strain on our operations,” commented Cristofer Ståhlgren, logistics and sales manager at Human Bridge, a collector of used textiles in Sweden.
“Collectors are being overburdened without adequate support, while systems enabling effective reuse are being disrupted. If we’re serious about circularity, we must protect and strengthen the existing reuse infrastructure.”
As the report noted, in 2024, Humana Lithuania sorted 38,000 tonnes of used textiles – including 11,000 tonnes from Sweden – of which 76% were reused, 16% recycled and 8% classified as waste. Textiles for reuse are sorted into over 400 categories based on quality and market needs, the group noted.
It also noted that organisations such as Baltic Textile Trading and Think Twice operate resale networks that maximise the reuse of garments through dynamic pricing.
Value chain
Commenting on the global value chain for second-hand clothing, Amanda Martvall, a textile expert from the IVL Swedish Environmental Research Institute and co-author of the report, said, “This value chain for reuse operates efficiently and ensures that garments which cannot be sold on the second-hand market within Europe are instead given an extended life elsewhere.
“In contrast, the rise of ultra-fast fashion and the accelerating consumption of new clothing is deeply concerning. This is where fundamental change is urgently needed.”
Elsewhere, Humana Lithuania CEO Örjan Österdal stressed the importance of global reuse as part of a circular textile economy, especially as Extended Producer Responsibility schemes are introduced, saying “It’s crucial to recognise that global clothing reuse, built on quality exports, is a key part of the solution to a circular textile economy.” Read more here.
